www.evillabs.net - User contributions [en]

File:Swamp-Day.jpg

2025-10-21T10:30:41Z

Ezrec:

Project Stained Glass

2025-10-21T10:30:21Z

Ezrec:

= Foreward =

I've been dabbling in stained glass since the fall of 2008, when I took a class at the Touchstone Center for the Arts as a birthday present.

My preferred tool is the Fletcher 01-122 'Gold Ball' cutter, due to its flexibility, low cost, and easy availability. I even use the little notches for breaking thin cuts.

I'm considering the carbide wheel version, but I'd like to try one out first.

My favorite glass to work with is a opaque black glass (actually, a very dark brown). It's wonderful for bringing out deep shadows in otherwise over-illuminated scenes.

My most hated glass is a wavy-on-both-sides yellow that I (foolishly) needed to make arc cuts in. Very pretty, but almost impossible to cut without curving into the wrong spot.

= Projects =

== Attic Window 2009 ==

[[File:Window-Night-2009.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for myself, Summer 2009.

45 pieces, 14 colors of glass.

Total construction time, 20 hours.

== Christmas 2011 ==

=== Swamp Theme ===

[[File:Swamp-Dawn.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for Robin McMullan, Christmas 2011.

[[File:Swamp-Day.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for Joyce McMullan, Christmas 2011.

[[File:Swamp-Evening.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for N. Richard and Dianne McMullan, Christmas 2011.

[[File:Swamp-Night.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for Dianna and Alan Williams, Christmas 2011.

Total construction time for all 3 pieces: 25 hours

=== Lantern ===

[[File:Lantern-2011-12.jpg|400px]]

Constructed for Thomas and Constance Merriman, Christmas 2011.

Total construction time: 8 hours.

Libp5glove

2023-05-15T17:35:51Z

Ezrec:

=P5 Glove Project=

Project to make a user-land Linux/MacOS/Windows driver library for the
USB based Essential Reality P5 Glove.

I haven't maintained it for a long while, but I'm willing to
accept patches!

It's available via GitHub at http://github.com/ezrec/libp5glove

This library provides a driver for the Essential Reality P5 Data Glove, a USB device that reports five finger positions and eight X/Y/Z Infrared (IR) locations. The library functions as a polling system, and the repository includes a demo (p5dump.c) that demonstrates simple usage of the library. There is a kernel patch included to deal with an issue where some 2.4.x kernels' hid.o module will "consume" the P5 HID endpoint, a problem also experienced with Watcom tablets2.

It's important to note that the repository is under the LGPL-2.1 license8.

Send email to '''jason dot mcmullan at gmail dot com''' if you want write access.

Fisnar F4200N

2023-01-20T19:09:01Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in '''N,V''' || Input value from port 1..8 || '''(0 or 1)'''
ok
|-
|| out '''N,V''' || Output value to port 1..8 ||
ok
|-
|| out 12,'''V''' || Enable (V=1) or disable (V=0) dispense ||
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| ma '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Moving all axes || ok
|-
|| mx '''X''' || Move X axis || ok
|-
|| my '''Y''' || Move Y axis || ok
|-
|| mz '''Z''' || Move Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2023-01-20T19:08:39Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in '''N,V''' || Input value from port 1..8 || '''(0 or 1)'''
ok
|-
|| out '''N,V''' || Output value to port 1..8 ||
ok
|-
|| out 12,'''12''' || Enable (V=1) or disable (V=0) dispense ||
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| ma '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Moving all axes || ok
|-
|| mx '''X''' || Move X axis || ok
|-
|| my '''Y''' || Move Y axis || ok
|-
|| mz '''Z''' || Move Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2023-01-20T19:08:22Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in '''N,V''' || Input value from port 1..8 || '''(0 or 1)'''
ok
|-
|| out '''N,V'''' || Output value to port 1..8 ||
ok
|-
|| out 12,'''12'''' || Enable (V=1) or disable (V=0) dispense ||
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| ma '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Moving all axes || ok
|-
|| mx '''X''' || Move X axis || ok
|-
|| my '''Y''' || Move Y axis || ok
|-
|| mz '''Z''' || Move Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2023-01-18T18:39:04Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in '''N,V''' || Input value from port 1..8 || '''(0 or 1)'''
ok
|-
|| ou '''N,V'''' || Output value to port 1..8 ||
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| ma '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Moving all axes || ok
|-
|| mx '''X''' || Move X axis || ok
|-
|| my '''Y''' || Move Y axis || ok
|-
|| mz '''Z''' || Move Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

CR-30

2021-05-29T01:16:35Z

Ezrec: /* Klipper Setup */

= CR-30 Belt Printer =

[[File:CR-30.jpg]]

The [https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-3dprintmill-3d-printer Creality CR-30] is a belt printer.

== KlipperWRT Setup ==

Reprogram your Creality Box with [https://github.com/ihrapsa/KlipperWrt KlipperWrt] using [https://letsprint3d.net/install-klipper-on-creality-wifi-box/ this guide].

== Klipper Setup ==

{| class="wikitable"
! Package
! Baud
! Comment
|-
| [http://www.evillabs.net/cr-30/klipper_cr-30_wrt.zip klipper_cr-30_wrt.zip]
| 230400
| Klipper firmware configured for Creality Box w/KlipperWRT
|-
| [http://www.evillabs.net/cr-30/klipper_cr-30_pi.zip klipper_cr-30_pi.zip]
| 250000
| Klipper firmware configured for RaspberryPi
|}

# Check out [https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper Klipper] at git hash 4f939c18e9ae86ef39d75b710fd1e0c72b46e927
#* <pre>git clone https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper</pre>
#* <pre>cd klipper</pre>
#* <pre>git checkout -b ${USER}/cr30 4f939c18e9ae86ef39d75b710fd1e0c72b46e927</pre>
# Copy the k''baudrate''.bin file to your SD card, and power cycle your printer.
#* Firmware update takes approx 30s
#* Your screen will remain blank - this is normal
# Use the the '''printer.cfg''' from the archive to configure klipper
#* (in ~/klipper_config/ for the KlipperWRT setup, or upload via Fluidd/Mainsail for Pi)
# Use `service klipper restart` on the Creality Box SSH console, or restart Klipper via the Fluidd/Mainsail interface

CR-30

2021-05-28T12:53:03Z

Ezrec: /* Klipper Setup */

= CR-30 Belt Printer =

[[File:CR-30.jpg]]

The [https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-3dprintmill-3d-printer Creality CR-30] is a belt printer.

== KlipperWRT Setup ==

Reprogram your Creality Box with [https://github.com/ihrapsa/KlipperWrt KlipperWrt] using [https://letsprint3d.net/install-klipper-on-creality-wifi-box/ this guide].

== Klipper Setup ==

1. Check out [https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper Klipper] at git hash d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01

<nowiki>$ git clone https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper
$ git checkout -b ${USER}/cr30 d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01
</nowiki>

2. Copy this [http://www.evillabs.net/cr-30/klipper.bin klipper.bin] file to your SD card, and power cycle your printer.
a. Firmware update takes approx 30s
b. Your screen will remain blank - this is normal

3. Use the this [http://www.evillabs.net/cr-30/printer.cfg printer.cfg] to configure klipper: (in ~/klipper_config/ for the KlipperWRT setup, or upload via Fluidd/Mainsail)

4. Use `service klipper restart` on the Creality Box SSH console, or via the Fluidd/Mainsail interface

CR-30

2021-05-28T12:45:35Z

Ezrec: /* CR-30 Belt Printer */

= CR-30 Belt Printer =

[[File:CR-30.jpg]]

The [https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-3dprintmill-3d-printer Creality CR-30] is a belt printer.

== KlipperWRT Setup ==

Reprogram your Creality Box with [https://github.com/ihrapsa/KlipperWrt KlipperWrt] using [https://letsprint3d.net/install-klipper-on-creality-wifi-box/ this guide].

== Klipper Setup ==

1. Check out [https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper Klipper] at git hash d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01

<nowiki>$ git clone https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper
$ git checkout -b ${USER}/cr30 d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01
</nowiki>

2. Copy this [[Media:klipper.bin]] file to your SD card, and power cycle your printer.
a. Firmware update takes approx 30s
b. Your screen will remain blank - this is normal

3. Use the following printer.cfg to configure klipper: (in ~/klipper_config/ for the KlipperWRT setup, or upload via Fluidd/Mainsail)

[[Media:cr30-printer.cfg]]

4. Use `service klipper restart` on the Creality Box SSH console, or via the Fluidd/Mainsail interface

File:CR-30.jpg

2021-05-28T12:42:45Z

Ezrec:

CR-30

2021-05-28T12:42:20Z

Ezrec: Created page with "= CR-30 Belt Printer = File:CR-30.jpg The [https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-3dprintmill-3d-printer Creality CR-30] is a belt printer. == KlipperWRT Setup..."

= CR-30 Belt Printer =

[[File:CR-30.jpg]]

The [https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-3dprintmill-3d-printer Creality CR-30] is a belt printer.

== KlipperWRT Setup ==

Reprogram your Creality Box with [https://github.com/ihrapsa/KlipperWrt KlipperWrt] using [https://letsprint3d.net/install-klipper-on-creality-wifi-box/ this guide].

== Klipper Setup ==

1. Check out [https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper Klipper] at git hash d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01

<nowiki>$ git clone https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper
$ git checkout -b ${USER}/cr30 d619796495d24d4e4c3e6b9bf2b5842db18b1c01
</nowiki>

2. Copy this [[File:klipper.bin]] file to your SD card, and power cycle your printer.
a. Firmware update takes approx 30s
b. Your screen will remain blank - this is normal

3. Use the following printer.cfg to configure klipper: (in ~/klipper_config/ for the KlipperWRT setup, or upload via Fluidd/Mainsail)

[[File:cr30-printer.cfg]]

4. Use `service klipper restart` on the Creality Box SSH console, or via the Fluidd/Mainsail interface

Main Page

2021-05-28T12:28:01Z

Ezrec:

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]

== 3D Printing ==

==== Active Projects ====

=== Belt Printing ===

[[CR-30]] - Creality CR-30 belt printer

=== Liquid Extrusion ===

[[Fisnar F4200N]] - Fisnar F4200N computer controlled dispenser

==== Suspended Projects ====

=== Powder Bed ===

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[Google Cardboard]] Google Cardboard

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

* [[Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

Fisnar F4200N

2019-11-05T03:31:05Z

Ezrec: /* Serial Control */

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in || ??? || 0
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2019-11-05T03:30:02Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

[[File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg]]

== Serial Control ==

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1 (null modem cable required)

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
| 0xdf || Reset serial port || << Control By RS232 Ver 2.6 >>
||
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in || ??? || 0
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''X'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|-
|| wait || Wait for all preceding movement commands to finish || ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2019-10-30T02:49:45Z

Ezrec: /* Serial Control */

Fisnar F4200N

2019-10-30T02:49:18Z

Ezrec: /* Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) */

File:Fisnar-F4200N.jpg

2019-10-30T02:48:56Z

Ezrec:

Fisnar F4200N

2019-10-30T02:44:30Z

Ezrec:

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) =

Serial Control

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in || ??? || 0
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|}

Fisnar F4200N

2019-10-30T02:42:18Z

Ezrec: Created page with " = Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices) Serial Control * Select 'Teach' mode * Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual) * Select 'Run'..."

= Fisnar F4200N (and other F4000N class devices)

Serial Control

* Select 'Teach' mode
* Use the Teaching Pendant to select Control By RS232 Mode (see manual)
* Select 'Run' mode
* Connect at 115200,8n1

All axis values are in decimal mm. Ie '100' or '12.568'

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|| Code || Action || Returns
|-
|| go || Start current program || ok
|-
|| st || Pause until '''START''' button pressed || ok
|-
|| in || ??? || 0
ok
|-
|| iv || ??? || 1
ok
|-
|| ha || Home all axes || ok
|-
|| hx || Home X axis || ok
|-
|| hy || Home Y axis || ok
|-
|| hz || Home Z axis || ok
|-
|| la '''X''','''Y''','''Z''' || Start moving all axes || ok
|-
|| lx '''X''' || Start moving X axis || ok
|-
|| ly '''Y''' || Start moving Y axis || ok
|-
|| lz '''Z''' || Start moving Z axis || ok
|-
|| pa || Show all axes position || '''X''','''Y''','''Z'''
ok
|-
|| px || Show X axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| py || Show Y axis position || '''Y'''
ok
|-
|| pz || Show Z axis position || '''Z'''
ok
|}

Main Page

2019-10-30T02:28:28Z

Ezrec: /* 3D Printing */

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]

== 3D Printing ==

==== Active Projects ====

=== Liquid Extrusion ===

[[Fisnar F4200N]] - Fisnar F4200N computer controlled dispenser

==== Suspended Projects ====

=== Powder Bed ===

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[Google Cardboard]] Google Cardboard

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

* [[Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

Main Page

2018-01-28T17:51:02Z

Ezrec: /* EvilLabs Wiki */

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]

== 3D Printing ==

=== Powder Bed ===

==== Active Projects ====

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

==== Suspended Projects ====

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[Google Cardboard]] Google Cardboard

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

* [[Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

EPSON TM-C600

2017-03-12T19:16:03Z

Ezrec: /* Driver Setup */

= Introduction =

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg|The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing!
</gallery>

The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a spec design for exclusive use by Catalina Marketing in the United States.

An identical printer to the EPSON TM-C610 - with the notable exception of requiring SJIC11P instead of SJIC25P cartridges, this printer is the workhorse coupon dispenser of many grocery store checkout lanes in the US.

= Setup =

The TM-C600 model that I acquired was a remanufactured unit off of eBay.com, for about $50 USD, with two spare ink cartridges.

After unpacking, remove the rear cover, and plug in the power adapter and the provided Ethernet cable into the TM-C600.

== Paper Loading ==

The paper loading can be accomplished with the power off or on.

Simply press down the gray latch in front, and pull the front panel forward.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Hatch-Open.jpg|The hatch opened.
</gallery>

Note that the paper roll drive and the ink head are located at the top front of the inside of the printer.

'''Do not touch the nozzles!''' - you can ''permanently'' damage them with fingerprints!

With the paper hatch open, insert the paper as per the diagram printed on the hatch.

As soon as the hatch is closed, the paper is loaded.

== Network Setup ==

Plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into a laptop of desktop computer.

Before powering on the TM-C600, set up the laptop/desktop machine's Ethernet to the following:

{| class="wikitable"
| IP Address || 192.168.192.1
|-
| Netmask || 255.255.255.0
|-
| Broadcast || 192.168.192.255
|}

Power on the TM-C600, and wait until it finishes its self-check (about 3 minutes or so, depending on how stale the ink cartridge is).

When it is complete, and only the green power light is lit, access the TM-C600 at the following IP address:

{| class="wikitable"
| URL || http://192.168.192.168/
|-
| Username || EPSON
|-
| Password || *No password needed*
|}

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Homepage.png
</gallery>

You can also telnet to 192.168.192.168, and log in with (again) no password - just slap ENTER - and configure the network setup from the command line prompts.

== Driver Setup ==

The CMC-6/TM-C600 uses the exact same driver as the EPSON TM-C610, and can be downloaded from [https://download.epson-biz.com/modules/pos/index.php?page=prod&pcat=2&pid=14 EPSON's POS printer site].

Run the nozzle check/cleaning about 3 times to clean out any old gunk and cycle the ink up to the printhead.

For Linux (and MacOS, if you're handy with a compiler), I have the following CUPS based driver:

[https://github.com/ezrec/epson-tm-c610 EPSON TM-C600/TM-C610 CUPS Driver (GitHub)]

= Printing =

Prints like any other network connected Windows printer - with the exception that the paper is very very narrow!

It takes standard 2.25" receipt paper, available at any office supply store.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Landscape.jpg
</galler>

ZCorp Z310+

2016-10-28T02:27:25Z

Ezrec: /* Low Binder Flow */

= What is it? =

The ZCorp Z310+ is a powder bed printer, designed to run a variety of powders and binders through HP10 printheads.

The Z310 was discontinued in 2011. ZCorp was absorbed by [https://www.3dsystems.com/ 3D Systems] on Jan 3, 2012, and as on February 10, 2016, 3D Systems has ended all warranty and support for it.

The HP10 printhead can often be found as 'new old stock' on eBay or industrial supply dealers.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_printer_and_depowder.jpg|Z310+ printer and depowdering station
</gallery>

For more details, please contact me at:

[[File:Ezrec_email.jpg]]

= Modifications =

Some 3D printable modifications (such as a binder tubing clip) are available on my [https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods] GitHub repository.

== Fast Axis Powder Sealing ==

The fast axis electronics box can get quite dusty. With some single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape (used for weatherproofing windows), you can easily reduce the amount of dust in the electronics box.

# Remove the metal shrouds on the fast axis electronics box.
# Using compressed air, blow out any existing dust in the electronics box.
#* DO NOT VACUUM - the act of vacuuming can cause ESD damage to the electronics!
# Wash and dry the metal shrouds.
# Apply single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape, as per the gallery images below.
# Reassemble the fast axis electronics shrouds.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_1.jpg|View of foam tape of the electronics box
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_2.jpg|Alternate view
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_front.jpg|Tape, as applied to the front shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_rear.jpg|Tape, as applied to the rear shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_final.jpg|Assembled and cleaned shrouds.
</gallery>

== Head-Change Drip Plate ==

This is a very easy mod - just put a saucer under the 'change head' location on the bed, to catch any binder drips when you are changing the head, or purging the binder lines.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_dripplate.jpg|A small saucer to catch binder drips.
</gallery>

== ZD5 Depowdering Station: Vortex Dust Collector ==

The ZD5 Depowdering station uses a bag vacuum in its base to collect the powder cleared from the station. As the bag fills with pwoder, the ZD5 vacuum loses suction over time.

Removal of the bag and cleaning the powder out of it for recycling is dusty and messy. This modification reduces bag change intervals significantly, and makes it much easier to recycle the powder.

A number of vendors sell DIY vortex dust collection systems for wood shops, and these work very well in combination with the ZD5's powerful vacuum. The one in the example is a DIY kit from Oneida Air Systems, purchased from a local hardware store for $50 USD.

Assemble the vortex collector as directed by the manufacturer, and place in-line with the ZD5 depowdering station's vacuum hoses. Only about 5%-10% of the powder ends up in the vacuum bag, extending the amount of time between bag changes - the bulk of the powder will end up in the vortex collector's bucket, easily removed, sifted, and recycled.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_assembly.jpg|ZD5 with a vortex dust collector attached.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_results.jpg|Dust ends up in the bucket - not in the bag!
</gallery>

= Materials =

== Sake (Rice Wine) Binder ==

I use Sake (Japanese rice wine) as a binder. It is available in gallon jug - make sure to get the unflavored variety, and aim for 15%-20% alcohol content.

=== Color and Flavor Additives ===

Small amounts of colors and flavors can be added to the sake binder, but don't overdo it.

If the physical properties (viscosity and surface tension) are altered too much, the nozzle flow rate will be too low, and you can risk burning out the printhead.

Adjust your binder mixture slowly, until you see streaking, then add plain sake to dilute it back to a workable mixture.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_too_much_flavor.jpg|In this example, too much flavoring (orange extract) was added, leading to the streaking observed.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_corrected.jpg|Diluting the binder with more sake resolved the issue.
</gallery>

== Powder Theory ==

My current running theory is that a 'good' powder mix needs the following characteristics:

* A 'bulk' insoluble material which does not change size when wetted (like the gravel in cement)
* A binder soluble adhesive, which binds the bulk together.
* A wicking agent, to decrease powder surface tension, and pull the binder into the layer from the surface
* A hydroscopic agent, to prevent the binder from spreading by capillary action into the unprinted area.

A good powder can have separate agents for these characteristics, or some agents can perform multiple actions.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Material Characteristics
|-
! Material !! Bulk !! Adhesive !! Wicking !! Hydroscopic !! Comments
|-
| Superfine Sugar || Good || Fair || X || - || Stick to the spreader without a starch added.
|-
| Plaster of Paris|| Strong|| Weak || - || - || Excellent base, add maltodextrin and PVA to make DIY ZP-151
|-
| Corn Starch || Fair || - || - || X || Good for improving spreadability of sugar based powders
|-
| Maltodextrin || - || - || - || X || Excellent hydroscopic agent
|-
| PVA Powder || - || Strong || - || - || Excellent adhesive for non-edibles
|-
| Meringue Powder || - || Good || - || - || Good adhesive for edibles
|-
| Tapioca Powder || Fair || - || X || X || Very easily spread, very absorbent
|-
| Wheat Flour || Good || - || X || X || Good bulk material for edibles
|}

== ZP-150 ==

=== What Works ===

When I have it, I run ZP-150 plaster powder at 0.1mm layers.

It's a very expensive material, so I tend to save it for comparison tests against my home-made powders.

== Sugar Powder Recipes ==

This is a very inexpensive (about $1 USD/kg) medium, and is nice for non-durable pieces.

I highly recommend adding a dye to your binder (food coloring works well) so that it easier to determine where the surface boundaries are when depowdering.

NOTE: The ZCorp 310+ is _not_ a food-safe device, and the printed results are not edible.

=== What Works ===

==== EZSpread Powder ====

This recipe spreads much more easily than the base powder, so you do not need to remove the scraper blade. However, the easily wetted powdered sugar requires that the saturation level of the derived powder must be lower to prevent bleed-through when spreading the new layer.

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz
* Diamond 10-X Powdered Sugar, 64oz (super fine sugar powder + corn starch)

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 80% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours before removal.
** Shell will be hard enough to handle air depowdering and manual brushing
** Core material will still be soft.
* Part will continue to harden for 48 hours (depending on temp & humidity)
** Shell will be hardened in about 12 hours
** Core material fully hardened after 48 hours

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller with a dry paper towel after each print.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powdered_sugar.jpg|Two bags of 10-X powdered sugar are added to the base mix.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_ezspread.jpg|Consistency test of the powder. Note that it holds its shape better than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl print. Much better fine detail than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_complex.jpg|EZSpread, handling a complex build plate.
</gallery>

=== Post Processing ===

After depowdering, lightly mist with distilled water, and dry in a 90C oven for one to two hours.

For permanent display, or lost wax casting, the sugar powder object can be infiltrated with paraffin wax.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl model, after light depowdering.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_spray.jpg|Sprayed with distilled water, and held in 90C oven for 1 hour.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_wax.jpg|Owl after infiltration with wax.
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Granulated Sugar Powder ====

Experimental powder, using the following recipe:

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Remove the scraper blade from the roller portion of the fast-axis assembly.
* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 100% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours.

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller after each print - it can get very sticky otherwise.

.. but they sure look cool, and sugar is a heck of a lot cheaper than ZP-150.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar.jpg|25lb of sugar - $20 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_meringue.jpg|8oz of meringue powder - $10 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_scraper.jpg|Location of the scraper blade - 3 hex bolts hold it in - 2 in rear of slow axis, 1 in front.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_base.jpg|Base sugar powder consistiency
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_layer.jpg|Printing out sugar skulls
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_final.jpg|Printed sugar skull!
</gallery>

=== EZSpread + Maltodextrin (96oz) ===

Adding 96oz of maltodextrin to the EZSpread material resulted in a powder that spread very easily, (2mm at 80% or lower saturation), and resulted in accurate parts with fine detail...

However...

* Attempting to use a saturation over 80% caused the roller to 'pick up' the previous layer, and scrape the layer over the part bed
* Resultant parts had an extremely low green strength, and after 24 hours had even less - they began to crumble simply due to gravity

RESULT: '''FAIL!'''

== USG Hydrostone Super-X ==

USG Hydrostone Super-X is a fine gypsum powder, with a light tan color. It has an extremely low 'mix consistiency' of 100 to 22, and is a very fast setting plaster.

'''WARNING:''' As USG Hydrostone contains powdered silica, extreme care must be taken with dust management, as exposure to powdered silica can lead to untreatable '''siliconosis'''.

=== What Works ===

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 ====

Binder setting: ZP-140

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Good green strength after 1 hour in the bed.

A very low amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part, typically in inner cavities.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Hydrostone 1:0:0:0 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* Hydrostone Super-X, straight out of the bucket

Good spread, but some slight "roller drag" on freshly printed layers.

Part was not removable, after even 6 hours. All moisture wicked into the unprinted powder, leaving the printed part without sufficient moisture to slake.

==== Hydrostone 36:4:1:3 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 36 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 4 units PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 3 units Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Damp and crumbly after 1 hour

Weak green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A significant amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-36-4-1-3.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 (wet) ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Very weak after 1 hour, but very good green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A noticable amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1-wet.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

= Maintenance =

== Front Panel Removal And Cleaning ==

Removing the front panel allows full access to the piston screw for lubrication, and removal of dust and debris from the debris catching tray under the pistons.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_screws.jpg|Locate and remove the 2 hex screws retaining the front panel.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_lcd.jpg|Lift the front panel approx 5cm, and pull away about 50cm. Unplug the LCD panel
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_waste.jpg|Pull off the waste bottle hose.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_removed.jpg|The front panel removed.
</gallery>

== Low Binder Flow ==

Low binder flow can be caused by many problems - follow this checklist to resolve them:

* If you can push binder via the binder flush kit, but pulling binder is difficult:
** Check/replace the quick-fit connectors on the back of the fast axis.
*** CPC Part Numbers SMFD01 and SMMPM01
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector to the binder tank
*** CPC Part Numbers PMCD1602 and PMCD2302
** Check/replace the filter unit behind the binder tank
* If pushing/pulling binder is equally difficult:
** Remove the printhead
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with a 5% household bleach to 95% distilled water solution.
** Leave the solution in for at least 12 hours
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with 200ml of distilled water
** Use the purge kit to load the binder lines with clean binder

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_issue.jpg|Low flow issue, notice the partial print in the upper left corner.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_connector.jpg|Location of binder 'quick-fit' connector that had worn.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_resolved.jpg|Shim installed in connector, to resolve flow issue.
</gallery>

== Printhead Commissioning Procedure ==

I have noticed on dead printheads that the mesh filter in front of the inkjets were clogged with black ink particles. They appear to have precipitated from the black ink when my sake binder mixed with old ink still in the cartridges.

I have developed the following procedure to flush a 'new' printhead with a dye based ink, to clear out the black pigment, before using my sake binder. This eliminates the flocking issue.

# Press 'N' on the console to begin the procedure
# Remove the old printhead
# Empty the binder tank into a spare clean container, and reinstall
# Load the binder flushing kit syringe with 30ml of yellow dye based HP10 bulk ink
# Install the binder flushing kit into the septum.
# Push the 25ml of dye into the septum
# Remove the binder flushing kit
# Empty any ink in the binder tank, rinse with distilled water, fill with binder, and reinstall
# Install a new HP10 printhead
# Press the 'online' button
# Print a 100x100x20mm block to flush the printhead with the dye-based ink, and transition to sake binder

= ZP150 Infiltration/Finishing Techniques =

== Wax Infiltration ==

Wax infiltration uses paraffin or beeswax to fully infiltrate the part, adding strength and moisture resistance.

=== Advantages ===

* Part is waterpoof
* Preserves fine details

=== Drawbacks ===

* Low finished part strength (but higher than 'green' strength)
* Part must be painted before wax is applied
** Painted parts will have matte, waxy finish

=== Procedure ===

* Cure green part at 90C for 4 hours.
* Paint part with watercolors.
* Cure painted part at 90C for 2 hours.
* Put part on a wax paper covered plate, next to a small block of paraffin or beeswax
* Put part in 90C oven for 2 hours, or until wax is wicked into part
** If the part is not fully infiltrated, add more wax and continue to heat at 90C.
* Remove part while still warm, and place on mesh grid to allow any remaining wax to drip off.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_paint.jpg|Using water paints to color the model.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_waxed.jpg|Finished model after waxing.
</gallery>

== Hydraulic Curing ==

This technique leads to a very high part strength, and the resulting part is waterproof and paintable.

=== Advantages ===

* Finished part has a high strength
* Part becomes waterproof
* Part is paintable with acrylics, watercolors, and most other paints

=== Disadvantages ===

* Parts with fine details and complex geometries cannot be cured with this method.
* Can leave parts with a high surface roughness

=== Procedure ===

* Cover bottom of container with clean, superfine sand
* Put green part in container.
** Part must have any concavities pointed upwards, to be able to receive sand.
* Sift sand over part until completely covered.
* Tap container until sand is fully packed around part.
* Fill container with water, slowly.
** As you fill the container, ensure that there is a 'dry' patch on the surface to allow trapped air to escape, until the container is full.
** Once filling begins, do _not_ move nor shake the container.
* Let container sit for 1 to 2 hours, undisturbed.
* Pour off excess water, and invert container
* Rinse sand off of the part
* Place part in a container of fresh water + 5% distilled vinegar to release surface sand
** Let sit for 2 hours
* Remove part, and brush off any remaining surface sand
* Let part air-dry for 24 hours
** Optional: air-dry for 2 hours, followed by drying in a 70C oven for 4 hours.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g78YgEdzeeE YouTube video of destructive testing of the resultant part]

ZCorp Z310+

2016-07-31T02:49:36Z

Ezrec: /* Procedure */

= What is it? =

The ZCorp Z310+ is a powder bed printer, designed to run a variety of powders and binders through HP10 printheads.

The Z310 was discontinued in 2011. ZCorp was absorbed by [https://www.3dsystems.com/ 3D Systems] on Jan 3, 2012, and as on February 10, 2016, 3D Systems has ended all warranty and support for it.

The HP10 printhead can often be found as 'new old stock' on eBay or industrial supply dealers.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_printer_and_depowder.jpg|Z310+ printer and depowdering station
</gallery>

For more details, please contact me at:

[[File:Ezrec_email.jpg]]

= Modifications =

Some 3D printable modifications (such as a binder tubing clip) are available on my [https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods] GitHub repository.

== Fast Axis Powder Sealing ==

The fast axis electronics box can get quite dusty. With some single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape (used for weatherproofing windows), you can easily reduce the amount of dust in the electronics box.

# Remove the metal shrouds on the fast axis electronics box.
# Using compressed air, blow out any existing dust in the electronics box.
#* DO NOT VACUUM - the act of vacuuming can cause ESD damage to the electronics!
# Wash and dry the metal shrouds.
# Apply single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape, as per the gallery images below.
# Reassemble the fast axis electronics shrouds.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_1.jpg|View of foam tape of the electronics box
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_2.jpg|Alternate view
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_front.jpg|Tape, as applied to the front shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_rear.jpg|Tape, as applied to the rear shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_final.jpg|Assembled and cleaned shrouds.
</gallery>

== Head-Change Drip Plate ==

This is a very easy mod - just put a saucer under the 'change head' location on the bed, to catch any binder drips when you are changing the head, or purging the binder lines.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_dripplate.jpg|A small saucer to catch binder drips.
</gallery>

== ZD5 Depowdering Station: Vortex Dust Collector ==

The ZD5 Depowdering station uses a bag vacuum in its base to collect the powder cleared from the station. As the bag fills with pwoder, the ZD5 vacuum loses suction over time.

Removal of the bag and cleaning the powder out of it for recycling is dusty and messy. This modification reduces bag change intervals significantly, and makes it much easier to recycle the powder.

A number of vendors sell DIY vortex dust collection systems for wood shops, and these work very well in combination with the ZD5's powerful vacuum. The one in the example is a DIY kit from Oneida Air Systems, purchased from a local hardware store for $50 USD.

Assemble the vortex collector as directed by the manufacturer, and place in-line with the ZD5 depowdering station's vacuum hoses. Only about 5%-10% of the powder ends up in the vacuum bag, extending the amount of time between bag changes - the bulk of the powder will end up in the vortex collector's bucket, easily removed, sifted, and recycled.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_assembly.jpg|ZD5 with a vortex dust collector attached.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_results.jpg|Dust ends up in the bucket - not in the bag!
</gallery>

= Materials =

== Sake (Rice Wine) Binder ==

I use Sake (Japanese rice wine) as a binder. It is available in gallon jug - make sure to get the unflavored variety, and aim for 15%-20% alcohol content.

=== Color and Flavor Additives ===

Small amounts of colors and flavors can be added to the sake binder, but don't overdo it.

If the physical properties (viscosity and surface tension) are altered too much, the nozzle flow rate will be too low, and you can risk burning out the printhead.

Adjust your binder mixture slowly, until you see streaking, then add plain sake to dilute it back to a workable mixture.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_too_much_flavor.jpg|In this example, too much flavoring (orange extract) was added, leading to the streaking observed.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_corrected.jpg|Diluting the binder with more sake resolved the issue.
</gallery>

== Powder Theory ==

My current running theory is that a 'good' powder mix needs the following characteristics:

* A 'bulk' insoluble material which does not change size when wetted (like the gravel in cement)
* A binder soluble adhesive, which binds the bulk together.
* A wicking agent, to decrease powder surface tension, and pull the binder into the layer from the surface
* A hydroscopic agent, to prevent the binder from spreading by capillary action into the unprinted area.

A good powder can have separate agents for these characteristics, or some agents can perform multiple actions.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Material Characteristics
|-
! Material !! Bulk !! Adhesive !! Wicking !! Hydroscopic !! Comments
|-
| Superfine Sugar || Good || Fair || X || - || Stick to the spreader without a starch added.
|-
| Plaster of Paris|| Strong|| Weak || - || - || Excellent base, add maltodextrin and PVA to make DIY ZP-151
|-
| Corn Starch || Fair || - || - || X || Good for improving spreadability of sugar based powders
|-
| Maltodextrin || - || - || - || X || Excellent hydroscopic agent
|-
| PVA Powder || - || Strong || - || - || Excellent adhesive for non-edibles
|-
| Meringue Powder || - || Good || - || - || Good adhesive for edibles
|-
| Tapioca Powder || Fair || - || X || X || Very easily spread, very absorbent
|-
| Wheat Flour || Good || - || X || X || Good bulk material for edibles
|}

== ZP-150 ==

=== What Works ===

When I have it, I run ZP-150 plaster powder at 0.1mm layers.

It's a very expensive material, so I tend to save it for comparison tests against my home-made powders.

== Sugar Powder Recipes ==

This is a very inexpensive (about $1 USD/kg) medium, and is nice for non-durable pieces.

I highly recommend adding a dye to your binder (food coloring works well) so that it easier to determine where the surface boundaries are when depowdering.

NOTE: The ZCorp 310+ is _not_ a food-safe device, and the printed results are not edible.

=== What Works ===

==== EZSpread Powder ====

This recipe spreads much more easily than the base powder, so you do not need to remove the scraper blade. However, the easily wetted powdered sugar requires that the saturation level of the derived powder must be lower to prevent bleed-through when spreading the new layer.

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz
* Diamond 10-X Powdered Sugar, 64oz (super fine sugar powder + corn starch)

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 80% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours before removal.
** Shell will be hard enough to handle air depowdering and manual brushing
** Core material will still be soft.
* Part will continue to harden for 48 hours (depending on temp & humidity)
** Shell will be hardened in about 12 hours
** Core material fully hardened after 48 hours

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller with a dry paper towel after each print.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powdered_sugar.jpg|Two bags of 10-X powdered sugar are added to the base mix.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_ezspread.jpg|Consistency test of the powder. Note that it holds its shape better than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl print. Much better fine detail than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_complex.jpg|EZSpread, handling a complex build plate.
</gallery>

=== Post Processing ===

After depowdering, lightly mist with distilled water, and dry in a 90C oven for one to two hours.

For permanent display, or lost wax casting, the sugar powder object can be infiltrated with paraffin wax.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl model, after light depowdering.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_spray.jpg|Sprayed with distilled water, and held in 90C oven for 1 hour.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_wax.jpg|Owl after infiltration with wax.
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Granulated Sugar Powder ====

Experimental powder, using the following recipe:

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Remove the scraper blade from the roller portion of the fast-axis assembly.
* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 100% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours.

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller after each print - it can get very sticky otherwise.

.. but they sure look cool, and sugar is a heck of a lot cheaper than ZP-150.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar.jpg|25lb of sugar - $20 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_meringue.jpg|8oz of meringue powder - $10 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_scraper.jpg|Location of the scraper blade - 3 hex bolts hold it in - 2 in rear of slow axis, 1 in front.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_base.jpg|Base sugar powder consistiency
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_layer.jpg|Printing out sugar skulls
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_final.jpg|Printed sugar skull!
</gallery>

=== EZSpread + Maltodextrin (96oz) ===

Adding 96oz of maltodextrin to the EZSpread material resulted in a powder that spread very easily, (2mm at 80% or lower saturation), and resulted in accurate parts with fine detail...

However...

* Attempting to use a saturation over 80% caused the roller to 'pick up' the previous layer, and scrape the layer over the part bed
* Resultant parts had an extremely low green strength, and after 24 hours had even less - they began to crumble simply due to gravity

RESULT: '''FAIL!'''

== USG Hydrostone Super-X ==

USG Hydrostone Super-X is a fine gypsum powder, with a light tan color. It has an extremely low 'mix consistiency' of 100 to 22, and is a very fast setting plaster.

'''WARNING:''' As USG Hydrostone contains powdered silica, extreme care must be taken with dust management, as exposure to powdered silica can lead to untreatable '''siliconosis'''.

=== What Works ===

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 ====

Binder setting: ZP-140

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Good green strength after 1 hour in the bed.

A very low amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part, typically in inner cavities.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Hydrostone 1:0:0:0 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* Hydrostone Super-X, straight out of the bucket

Good spread, but some slight "roller drag" on freshly printed layers.

Part was not removable, after even 6 hours. All moisture wicked into the unprinted powder, leaving the printed part without sufficient moisture to slake.

==== Hydrostone 36:4:1:3 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 36 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 4 units PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 3 units Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Damp and crumbly after 1 hour

Weak green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A significant amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-36-4-1-3.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 (wet) ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Very weak after 1 hour, but very good green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A noticable amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1-wet.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

= Maintenance =

== Front Panel Removal And Cleaning ==

Removing the front panel allows full access to the piston screw for lubrication, and removal of dust and debris from the debris catching tray under the pistons.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_screws.jpg|Locate and remove the 2 hex screws retaining the front panel.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_lcd.jpg|Lift the front panel approx 5cm, and pull away about 50cm. Unplug the LCD panel
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_waste.jpg|Pull off the waste bottle hose.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_removed.jpg|The front panel removed.
</gallery>

== Low Binder Flow ==

Low binder flow can be caused by many problems - follow this checklist to resolve them:

* If you can push binder via the binder flush kit, but pulling binder is difficult:
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector on the back of the fast axis.
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector to the binder tank
** Check/replace the filter unit behind the binder tank
* If pushing/pulling binder is equally difficult:
** Remove the printhead
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with a 5% household bleach to 95% distilled water solution.
** Leave the solution in for at least 12 hours
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with 200ml of distilled water
** Use the purge kit to load the binder lines with clean binder

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_issue.jpg|Low flow issue, notice the partial print in the upper left corner.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_connector.jpg|Location of binder 'quick-fit' connector that had worn.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_resolved.jpg|Shim installed in connector, to resolve flow issue.
</gallery>

== Printhead Commissioning Procedure ==

I have noticed on dead printheads that the mesh filter in front of the inkjets were clogged with black ink particles. They appear to have precipitated from the black ink when my sake binder mixed with old ink still in the cartridges.

I have developed the following procedure to flush a 'new' printhead with a dye based ink, to clear out the black pigment, before using my sake binder. This eliminates the flocking issue.

# Press 'N' on the console to begin the procedure
# Remove the old printhead
# Empty the binder tank into a spare clean container, and reinstall
# Load the binder flushing kit syringe with 30ml of yellow dye based HP10 bulk ink
# Install the binder flushing kit into the septum.
# Push the 25ml of dye into the septum
# Remove the binder flushing kit
# Empty any ink in the binder tank, rinse with distilled water, fill with binder, and reinstall
# Install a new HP10 printhead
# Press the 'online' button
# Print a 100x100x20mm block to flush the printhead with the dye-based ink, and transition to sake binder

= ZP150 Infiltration/Finishing Techniques =

== Wax Infiltration ==

Wax infiltration uses paraffin or beeswax to fully infiltrate the part, adding strength and moisture resistance.

=== Advantages ===

* Part is waterpoof
* Preserves fine details

=== Drawbacks ===

* Low finished part strength (but higher than 'green' strength)
* Part must be painted before wax is applied
** Painted parts will have matte, waxy finish

=== Procedure ===

* Cure green part at 90C for 4 hours.
* Paint part with watercolors.
* Cure painted part at 90C for 2 hours.
* Put part on a wax paper covered plate, next to a small block of paraffin or beeswax
* Put part in 90C oven for 2 hours, or until wax is wicked into part
** If the part is not fully infiltrated, add more wax and continue to heat at 90C.
* Remove part while still warm, and place on mesh grid to allow any remaining wax to drip off.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_paint.jpg|Using water paints to color the model.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_waxed.jpg|Finished model after waxing.
</gallery>

== Hydraulic Curing ==

This technique leads to a very high part strength, and the resulting part is waterproof and paintable.

=== Advantages ===

* Finished part has a high strength
* Part becomes waterproof
* Part is paintable with acrylics, watercolors, and most other paints

=== Disadvantages ===

* Parts with fine details and complex geometries cannot be cured with this method.
* Can leave parts with a high surface roughness

=== Procedure ===

* Cover bottom of container with clean, superfine sand
* Put green part in container.
** Part must have any concavities pointed upwards, to be able to receive sand.
* Sift sand over part until completely covered.
* Tap container until sand is fully packed around part.
* Fill container with water, slowly.
** As you fill the container, ensure that there is a 'dry' patch on the surface to allow trapped air to escape, until the container is full.
** Once filling begins, do _not_ move nor shake the container.
* Let container sit for 1 to 2 hours, undisturbed.
* Pour off excess water, and invert container
* Rinse sand off of the part
* Place part in a container of fresh water + 5% distilled vinegar to release surface sand
** Let sit for 2 hours
* Remove part, and brush off any remaining surface sand
* Let part air-dry for 24 hours
** Optional: air-dry for 2 hours, followed by drying in a 70C oven for 4 hours.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g78YgEdzeeE YouTube video of destructive testing of the resultant part]

File:Google Cardboard Kelloggs CACW qr.png

2016-05-19T01:26:35Z

Ezrec: Ezrec uploaded a new version of File:Google Cardboard Kelloggs CACW qr.png

File:Google Cardboard Kelloggs CACW viewer.jpg

2016-05-19T00:34:23Z

Ezrec:

File:Google Cardboard Kelloggs CACW box.jpg

2016-05-19T00:33:52Z

Ezrec:

File:Google Cardboard Kelloggs CACW qr.png

2016-05-19T00:24:23Z

Ezrec:

Google Cardboard

2016-05-19T00:23:55Z

Ezrec: Created page with "= Google Cardboard = Google Cardboard is a head-mounted-display adapter for touchscreen phones. == Kellogg's Captain America: Civil War Promotional == Kellogg's had release..."

= Google Cardboard =

Google Cardboard is a head-mounted-display adapter for touchscreen phones.

== Kellogg's Captain America: Civil War Promotional ==

Kellogg's had released a promotional item (free with 3 Kellogg's, Keebler, or Cheez-its products) which is a basic Google Cardboard device.

It lacks a button input, but not bad for 'free with proof of purchase'.

<gallery>
File:Google_Cardboard_Kelloggs_CACW_box.jpg|The promotional box
File:Google_Cardboard_Kelloggs_CACW_viewer.jpg|The assembled viewer
</gallery>

I have created a QR code for easy use of the viewer with the Google Cardboard APIs:

[[File:Google_Cardboard_Kelloggs_CACW_qr.png]]

Main Page

2016-05-19T00:19:45Z

Ezrec: /* Miscellaneous */

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]
ZCorp_Z310%2B
== 3D Printing ==

=== Powder Bed ===

==== Active Projects ====

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

==== Suspended Projects ====

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[Google Cardboard]] Google Cardboard

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

* [[Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

ZCorp Z310+

2016-05-11T02:23:41Z

Ezrec: /* Powder Theory */

= What is it? =

The ZCorp Z310+ is a powder bed printer, designed to run a variety of powders and binders through HP10 printheads.

The Z310 was discontinued in 2011. ZCorp was absorbed by [https://www.3dsystems.com/ 3D Systems] on Jan 3, 2012, and as on February 10, 2016, 3D Systems has ended all warranty and support for it.

The HP10 printhead can often be found as 'new old stock' on eBay or industrial supply dealers.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_printer_and_depowder.jpg|Z310+ printer and depowdering station
</gallery>

For more details, please contact me at:

[[File:Ezrec_email.jpg]]

= Modifications =

Some 3D printable modifications (such as a binder tubing clip) are available on my [https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods] GitHub repository.

== Fast Axis Powder Sealing ==

The fast axis electronics box can get quite dusty. With some single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape (used for weatherproofing windows), you can easily reduce the amount of dust in the electronics box.

# Remove the metal shrouds on the fast axis electronics box.
# Using compressed air, blow out any existing dust in the electronics box.
#* DO NOT VACUUM - the act of vacuuming can cause ESD damage to the electronics!
# Wash and dry the metal shrouds.
# Apply single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape, as per the gallery images below.
# Reassemble the fast axis electronics shrouds.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_1.jpg|View of foam tape of the electronics box
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_2.jpg|Alternate view
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_front.jpg|Tape, as applied to the front shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_rear.jpg|Tape, as applied to the rear shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_final.jpg|Assembled and cleaned shrouds.
</gallery>

== Head-Change Drip Plate ==

This is a very easy mod - just put a saucer under the 'change head' location on the bed, to catch any binder drips when you are changing the head, or purging the binder lines.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_dripplate.jpg|A small saucer to catch binder drips.
</gallery>

== ZD5 Depowdering Station: Vortex Dust Collector ==

The ZD5 Depowdering station uses a bag vacuum in its base to collect the powder cleared from the station. As the bag fills with pwoder, the ZD5 vacuum loses suction over time.

Removal of the bag and cleaning the powder out of it for recycling is dusty and messy. This modification reduces bag change intervals significantly, and makes it much easier to recycle the powder.

A number of vendors sell DIY vortex dust collection systems for wood shops, and these work very well in combination with the ZD5's powerful vacuum. The one in the example is a DIY kit from Oneida Air Systems, purchased from a local hardware store for $50 USD.

Assemble the vortex collector as directed by the manufacturer, and place in-line with the ZD5 depowdering station's vacuum hoses. Only about 5%-10% of the powder ends up in the vacuum bag, extending the amount of time between bag changes - the bulk of the powder will end up in the vortex collector's bucket, easily removed, sifted, and recycled.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_assembly.jpg|ZD5 with a vortex dust collector attached.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_results.jpg|Dust ends up in the bucket - not in the bag!
</gallery>

= Materials =

== Sake (Rice Wine) Binder ==

I use Sake (Japanese rice wine) as a binder. It is available in gallon jug - make sure to get the unflavored variety, and aim for 15%-20% alcohol content.

=== Color and Flavor Additives ===

Small amounts of colors and flavors can be added to the sake binder, but don't overdo it.

If the physical properties (viscosity and surface tension) are altered too much, the nozzle flow rate will be too low, and you can risk burning out the printhead.

Adjust your binder mixture slowly, until you see streaking, then add plain sake to dilute it back to a workable mixture.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_too_much_flavor.jpg|In this example, too much flavoring (orange extract) was added, leading to the streaking observed.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_corrected.jpg|Diluting the binder with more sake resolved the issue.
</gallery>

== Powder Theory ==

My current running theory is that a 'good' powder mix needs the following characteristics:

* A 'bulk' insoluble material which does not change size when wetted (like the gravel in cement)
* A binder soluble adhesive, which binds the bulk together.
* A wicking agent, to decrease powder surface tension, and pull the binder into the layer from the surface
* A hydroscopic agent, to prevent the binder from spreading by capillary action into the unprinted area.

A good powder can have separate agents for these characteristics, or some agents can perform multiple actions.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Material Characteristics
|-
! Material !! Bulk !! Adhesive !! Wicking !! Hydroscopic !! Comments
|-
| Superfine Sugar || Good || Fair || X || - || Stick to the spreader without a starch added.
|-
| Plaster of Paris|| Strong|| Weak || - || - || Excellent base, add maltodextrin and PVA to make DIY ZP-151
|-
| Corn Starch || Fair || - || - || X || Good for improving spreadability of sugar based powders
|-
| Maltodextrin || - || - || - || X || Excellent hydroscopic agent
|-
| PVA Powder || - || Strong || - || - || Excellent adhesive for non-edibles
|-
| Meringue Powder || - || Good || - || - || Good adhesive for edibles
|-
| Tapioca Powder || Fair || - || X || X || Very easily spread, very absorbent
|-
| Wheat Flour || Good || - || X || X || Good bulk material for edibles
|}

== ZP-150 ==

=== What Works ===

When I have it, I run ZP-150 plaster powder at 0.1mm layers.

It's a very expensive material, so I tend to save it for comparison tests against my home-made powders.

== Sugar Powder Recipes ==

This is a very inexpensive (about $1 USD/kg) medium, and is nice for non-durable pieces.

I highly recommend adding a dye to your binder (food coloring works well) so that it easier to determine where the surface boundaries are when depowdering.

NOTE: The ZCorp 310+ is _not_ a food-safe device, and the printed results are not edible.

=== What Works ===

==== EZSpread Powder ====

This recipe spreads much more easily than the base powder, so you do not need to remove the scraper blade. However, the easily wetted powdered sugar requires that the saturation level of the derived powder must be lower to prevent bleed-through when spreading the new layer.

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz
* Diamond 10-X Powdered Sugar, 64oz (super fine sugar powder + corn starch)

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 80% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours before removal.
** Shell will be hard enough to handle air depowdering and manual brushing
** Core material will still be soft.
* Part will continue to harden for 48 hours (depending on temp & humidity)
** Shell will be hardened in about 12 hours
** Core material fully hardened after 48 hours

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller with a dry paper towel after each print.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powdered_sugar.jpg|Two bags of 10-X powdered sugar are added to the base mix.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_ezspread.jpg|Consistency test of the powder. Note that it holds its shape better than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl print. Much better fine detail than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_complex.jpg|EZSpread, handling a complex build plate.
</gallery>

=== Post Processing ===

After depowdering, lightly mist with distilled water, and dry in a 90C oven for one to two hours.

For permanent display, or lost wax casting, the sugar powder object can be infiltrated with paraffin wax.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl model, after light depowdering.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_spray.jpg|Sprayed with distilled water, and held in 90C oven for 1 hour.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_wax.jpg|Owl after infiltration with wax.
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Granulated Sugar Powder ====

Experimental powder, using the following recipe:

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Remove the scraper blade from the roller portion of the fast-axis assembly.
* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 100% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours.

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller after each print - it can get very sticky otherwise.

.. but they sure look cool, and sugar is a heck of a lot cheaper than ZP-150.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar.jpg|25lb of sugar - $20 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_meringue.jpg|8oz of meringue powder - $10 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_scraper.jpg|Location of the scraper blade - 3 hex bolts hold it in - 2 in rear of slow axis, 1 in front.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_base.jpg|Base sugar powder consistiency
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_layer.jpg|Printing out sugar skulls
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_final.jpg|Printed sugar skull!
</gallery>

=== EZSpread + Maltodextrin (96oz) ===

Adding 96oz of maltodextrin to the EZSpread material resulted in a powder that spread very easily, (2mm at 80% or lower saturation), and resulted in accurate parts with fine detail...

However...

* Attempting to use a saturation over 80% caused the roller to 'pick up' the previous layer, and scrape the layer over the part bed
* Resultant parts had an extremely low green strength, and after 24 hours had even less - they began to crumble simply due to gravity

RESULT: '''FAIL!'''

== USG Hydrostone Super-X ==

USG Hydrostone Super-X is a fine gypsum powder, with a light tan color. It has an extremely low 'mix consistiency' of 100 to 22, and is a very fast setting plaster.

'''WARNING:''' As USG Hydrostone contains powdered silica, extreme care must be taken with dust management, as exposure to powdered silica can lead to untreatable '''siliconosis'''.

=== What Works ===

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 ====

Binder setting: ZP-140

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Good green strength after 1 hour in the bed.

A very low amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part, typically in inner cavities.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Hydrostone 1:0:0:0 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* Hydrostone Super-X, straight out of the bucket

Good spread, but some slight "roller drag" on freshly printed layers.

Part was not removable, after even 6 hours. All moisture wicked into the unprinted powder, leaving the printed part without sufficient moisture to slake.

==== Hydrostone 36:4:1:3 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 36 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 4 units PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 3 units Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Damp and crumbly after 1 hour

Weak green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A significant amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-36-4-1-3.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 (wet) ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Very weak after 1 hour, but very good green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A noticable amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1-wet.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

= Maintenance =

== Front Panel Removal And Cleaning ==

Removing the front panel allows full access to the piston screw for lubrication, and removal of dust and debris from the debris catching tray under the pistons.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_screws.jpg|Locate and remove the 2 hex screws retaining the front panel.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_lcd.jpg|Lift the front panel approx 5cm, and pull away about 50cm. Unplug the LCD panel
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_waste.jpg|Pull off the waste bottle hose.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_removed.jpg|The front panel removed.
</gallery>

== Low Binder Flow ==

Low binder flow can be caused by many problems - follow this checklist to resolve them:

* If you can push binder via the binder flush kit, but pulling binder is difficult:
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector on the back of the fast axis.
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector to the binder tank
** Check/replace the filter unit behind the binder tank
* If pushing/pulling binder is equally difficult:
** Remove the printhead
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with a 5% household bleach to 95% distilled water solution.
** Leave the solution in for at least 12 hours
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with 200ml of distilled water
** Use the purge kit to load the binder lines with clean binder

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_issue.jpg|Low flow issue, notice the partial print in the upper left corner.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_connector.jpg|Location of binder 'quick-fit' connector that had worn.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_resolved.jpg|Shim installed in connector, to resolve flow issue.
</gallery>

== Printhead Commissioning Procedure ==

I have noticed on dead printheads that the mesh filter in front of the inkjets were clogged with black ink particles. They appear to have precipitated from the black ink when my sake binder mixed with old ink still in the cartridges.

I have developed the following procedure to flush a 'new' printhead with a dye based ink, to clear out the black pigment, before using my sake binder. This eliminates the flocking issue.

# Press 'N' on the console to begin the procedure
# Remove the old printhead
# Empty the binder tank into a spare clean container, and reinstall
# Load the binder flushing kit syringe with 30ml of yellow dye based HP10 bulk ink
# Install the binder flushing kit into the septum.
# Push the 25ml of dye into the septum
# Remove the binder flushing kit
# Empty any ink in the binder tank, rinse with distilled water, fill with binder, and reinstall
# Install a new HP10 printhead
# Press the 'online' button
# Print a 100x100x20mm block to flush the printhead with the dye-based ink, and transition to sake binder

= ZP150 Infiltration/Finishing Techniques =

== Wax Infiltration ==

Wax infiltration uses paraffin or beeswax to fully infiltrate the part, adding strength and moisture resistance.

=== Advantages ===

* Part is waterpoof
* Preserves fine details

=== Drawbacks ===

* Low finished part strength (but higher than 'green' strength)
* Part must be painted before wax is applied
** Painted parts will have matte, waxy finish

=== Procedure ===

* Cure green part at 90C for 4 hours.
* Paint part with watercolors.
* Cure painted part at 90C for 2 hours.
* Put part on a wax paper covered plate, next to a small block of paraffin or beeswax
* Put part in 90C oven for 2 hours, or until wax is wicked into part
** If the part is not fully infiltrated, add more wax and continue to heat at 90C.
* Remove part while still warm, and place on mesh grid to allow any remaining wax to drip off.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_paint.jpg|Using water paints to color the model.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_waxed.jpg|Finished model after waxing.
</gallery>

== Hydraulic Curing ==

This technique leads to a very high part strength, and the resulting part is waterproof and paintable.

=== Advantages ===

* Finished part has a high strength
* Part becomes waterproof
* Part is paintable with acrylics, watercolors, and most other paints

=== Disadvantages ===

* Parts with fine details and complex geometries cannot be cured with this method.
* Can leave parts with a high surface roughness

=== Procedure ===

* Cover bottom of container with clean, superfine sand
* Put green part in container.
** Part must have any concavities pointed upwards, to be able to receive sand.
* Sift sand over part until completely covered.
* Tap container until sand is fully packed around part.
* Fill container with water, slowly.
** As you fill the container, ensure that there is a 'dry' patch on the surface to allow trapped air to escape, until the container is full.
** Once filling begins, do _not_ move nor shake the container.
* Let container sit for 1 to 2 hours, undisturbed.
* Pour off excess water, and invert container
* Rinse sand off of the part
* Place part in a container of fresh water + 5% distilled vinegar to release surface sand
** Let sit for 2 hours
* Remove part, and brush off any remaining surface sand
* Let part air-dry for 24 hours
** Optional: air-dry for 2 hours, followed by drying in a 70C oven for 4 hours.

[https://github.com/Alexia/mediawiki-embedvideo/archive/v2.2.8.zip YouTube video of destructive testing of the resultant part]

ZCorp Z310+

2016-03-23T13:00:49Z

Ezrec: /* USG Hydrostone Super-X */

= What is it? =

The ZCorp Z310+ is a powder bed printer, designed to run a variety of powders and binders through HP10 printheads.

The Z310 was discontinued in 2011. ZCorp was absorbed by [https://www.3dsystems.com/ 3D Systems] on Jan 3, 2012, and as on February 10, 2016, 3D Systems has ended all warranty and support for it.

The HP10 printhead can often be found as 'new old stock' on eBay or industrial supply dealers.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_printer_and_depowder.jpg|Z310+ printer and depowdering station
</gallery>

For more details, please contact me at:

[[File:Ezrec_email.jpg]]

= Modifications =

Some 3D printable modifications (such as a binder tubing clip) are available on my [https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods] GitHub repository.

== Fast Axis Powder Sealing ==

The fast axis electronics box can get quite dusty. With some single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape (used for weatherproofing windows), you can easily reduce the amount of dust in the electronics box.

# Remove the metal shrouds on the fast axis electronics box.
# Using compressed air, blow out any existing dust in the electronics box.
#* DO NOT VACUUM - the act of vacuuming can cause ESD damage to the electronics!
# Wash and dry the metal shrouds.
# Apply single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape, as per the gallery images below.
# Reassemble the fast axis electronics shrouds.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_1.jpg|View of foam tape of the electronics box
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_2.jpg|Alternate view
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_front.jpg|Tape, as applied to the front shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_rear.jpg|Tape, as applied to the rear shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_final.jpg|Assembled and cleaned shrouds.
</gallery>

== Head-Change Drip Plate ==

This is a very easy mod - just put a saucer under the 'change head' location on the bed, to catch any binder drips when you are changing the head, or purging the binder lines.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_dripplate.jpg|A small saucer to catch binder drips.
</gallery>

== ZD5 Depowdering Station: Vortex Dust Collector ==

The ZD5 Depowdering station uses a bag vacuum in its base to collect the powder cleared from the station. As the bag fills with pwoder, the ZD5 vacuum loses suction over time.

Removal of the bag and cleaning the powder out of it for recycling is dusty and messy. This modification reduces bag change intervals significantly, and makes it much easier to recycle the powder.

A number of vendors sell DIY vortex dust collection systems for wood shops, and these work very well in combination with the ZD5's powerful vacuum. The one in the example is a DIY kit from Oneida Air Systems, purchased from a local hardware store for $50 USD.

Assemble the vortex collector as directed by the manufacturer, and place in-line with the ZD5 depowdering station's vacuum hoses. Only about 5%-10% of the powder ends up in the vacuum bag, extending the amount of time between bag changes - the bulk of the powder will end up in the vortex collector's bucket, easily removed, sifted, and recycled.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_assembly.jpg|ZD5 with a vortex dust collector attached.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_results.jpg|Dust ends up in the bucket - not in the bag!
</gallery>

= Materials =

== Sake (Rice Wine) Binder ==

I use Sake (Japanese rice wine) as a binder. It is available in gallon jug - make sure to get the unflavored variety, and aim for 15%-20% alcohol content.

=== Color and Flavor Additives ===

Small amounts of colors and flavors can be added to the sake binder, but don't overdo it.

If the physical properties (viscosity and surface tension) are altered too much, the nozzle flow rate will be too low, and you can risk burning out the printhead.

Adjust your binder mixture slowly, until you see streaking, then add plain sake to dilute it back to a workable mixture.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_too_much_flavor.jpg|In this example, too much flavoring (orange extract) was added, leading to the streaking observed.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_corrected.jpg|Diluting the binder with more sake resolved the issue.
</gallery>

== Powder Theory ==

My current running theory is that a 'good' powder mix needs the following characteristics:

* A 'bulk' insoluble material which does not change size when wetted (like the gravel in cement)
* A binder soluble adhesive, which prevents the layer from curling/cracking from surface tension.
* A wicking agent, to decrease powder surface tension, and pull the binder into the layer from the surface
* A hydroscopic agent, to prevent the binder from spreading by capillary action into the unprinted area.

A good powder can have separate agents for these characteristics, or some agents can perform multiple actions.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Material Characteristics
|-
! Material !! Bulk !! Adhesive !! Wicking !! Hydroscopic
|-
| Sugar || X || - || X || -
|-
| Plaster || X || X || - || -
|-
| Corn Starch || - || - || - || X
|-
| Maltodextrin || - || - || - || X
|-
| PVA Powder || - || X || - || -
|-
| Meringue Powder || - || X || - || -
|}

== ZP-150 ==

=== What Works ===

When I have it, I run ZP-150 plaster powder at 0.1mm layers.

It's a very expensive material, so I tend to save it for comparison tests against my home-made powders.

== Sugar Powder Recipes ==

This is a very inexpensive (about $1 USD/kg) medium, and is nice for non-durable pieces.

I highly recommend adding a dye to your binder (food coloring works well) so that it easier to determine where the surface boundaries are when depowdering.

NOTE: The ZCorp 310+ is _not_ a food-safe device, and the printed results are not edible.

=== What Works ===

==== EZSpread Powder ====

This recipe spreads much more easily than the base powder, so you do not need to remove the scraper blade. However, the easily wetted powdered sugar requires that the saturation level of the derived powder must be lower to prevent bleed-through when spreading the new layer.

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz
* Diamond 10-X Powdered Sugar, 64oz (super fine sugar powder + corn starch)

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 80% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours before removal.
** Shell will be hard enough to handle air depowdering and manual brushing
** Core material will still be soft.
* Part will continue to harden for 48 hours (depending on temp & humidity)
** Shell will be hardened in about 12 hours
** Core material fully hardened after 48 hours

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller with a dry paper towel after each print.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powdered_sugar.jpg|Two bags of 10-X powdered sugar are added to the base mix.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_ezspread.jpg|Consistency test of the powder. Note that it holds its shape better than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl print. Much better fine detail than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_complex.jpg|EZSpread, handling a complex build plate.
</gallery>

=== Post Processing ===

After depowdering, lightly mist with distilled water, and dry in a 90C oven for one to two hours.

For permanent display, or lost wax casting, the sugar powder object can be infiltrated with paraffin wax.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl model, after light depowdering.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_spray.jpg|Sprayed with distilled water, and held in 90C oven for 1 hour.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_wax.jpg|Owl after infiltration with wax.
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Granulated Sugar Powder ====

Experimental powder, using the following recipe:

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Remove the scraper blade from the roller portion of the fast-axis assembly.
* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 100% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours.

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller after each print - it can get very sticky otherwise.

.. but they sure look cool, and sugar is a heck of a lot cheaper than ZP-150.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar.jpg|25lb of sugar - $20 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_meringue.jpg|8oz of meringue powder - $10 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_scraper.jpg|Location of the scraper blade - 3 hex bolts hold it in - 2 in rear of slow axis, 1 in front.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_base.jpg|Base sugar powder consistiency
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_layer.jpg|Printing out sugar skulls
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_final.jpg|Printed sugar skull!
</gallery>

=== EZSpread + Maltodextrin (96oz) ===

Adding 96oz of maltodextrin to the EZSpread material resulted in a powder that spread very easily, (2mm at 80% or lower saturation), and resulted in accurate parts with fine detail...

However...

* Attempting to use a saturation over 80% caused the roller to 'pick up' the previous layer, and scrape the layer over the part bed
* Resultant parts had an extremely low green strength, and after 24 hours had even less - they began to crumble simply due to gravity

RESULT: '''FAIL!'''

== USG Hydrostone Super-X ==

USG Hydrostone Super-X is a fine gypsum powder, with a light tan color. It has an extremely low 'mix consistiency' of 100 to 22, and is a very fast setting plaster.

'''WARNING:''' As USG Hydrostone contains powdered silica, extreme care must be taken with dust management, as exposure to powdered silica can lead to untreatable '''siliconosis'''.

=== What Works ===

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 ====

Binder setting: ZP-140

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Good green strength after 1 hour in the bed.

A very low amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part, typically in inner cavities.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Hydrostone 1:0:0:0 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* Hydrostone Super-X, straight out of the bucket

Good spread, but some slight "roller drag" on freshly printed layers.

Part was not removable, after even 6 hours. All moisture wicked into the unprinted powder, leaving the printed part without sufficient moisture to slake.

==== Hydrostone 36:4:1:3 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 36 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 4 units PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 3 units Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Damp and crumbly after 1 hour

Weak green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A significant amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-36-4-1-3.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 (wet) ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Very weak after 1 hour, but very good green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A noticable amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1-wet.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

= Maintenance =

== Front Panel Removal And Cleaning ==

Removing the front panel allows full access to the piston screw for lubrication, and removal of dust and debris from the debris catching tray under the pistons.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_screws.jpg|Locate and remove the 2 hex screws retaining the front panel.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_lcd.jpg|Lift the front panel approx 5cm, and pull away about 50cm. Unplug the LCD panel
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_waste.jpg|Pull off the waste bottle hose.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_removed.jpg|The front panel removed.
</gallery>

== Low Binder Flow ==

Low binder flow can be caused by many problems - follow this checklist to resolve them:

* If you can push binder via the binder flush kit, but pulling binder is difficult:
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector on the back of the fast axis.
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector to the binder tank
** Check/replace the filter unit behind the binder tank
* If pushing/pulling binder is equally difficult:
** Remove the printhead
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with a 5% household bleach to 95% distilled water solution.
** Leave the solution in for at least 12 hours
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with 200ml of distilled water
** Use the purge kit to load the binder lines with clean binder

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_issue.jpg|Low flow issue, notice the partial print in the upper left corner.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_connector.jpg|Location of binder 'quick-fit' connector that had worn.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_resolved.jpg|Shim installed in connector, to resolve flow issue.
</gallery>

== Printhead Commissioning Procedure ==

I have noticed on dead printheads that the mesh filter in front of the inkjets were clogged with black ink particles. They appear to have precipitated from the black ink when my sake binder mixed with old ink still in the cartridges.

I have developed the following procedure to flush a 'new' printhead with a dye based ink, to clear out the black pigment, before using my sake binder. This eliminates the flocking issue.

# Press 'N' on the console to begin the procedure
# Remove the old printhead
# Empty the binder tank into a spare clean container, and reinstall
# Load the binder flushing kit syringe with 30ml of yellow dye based HP10 bulk ink
# Install the binder flushing kit into the septum.
# Push the 25ml of dye into the septum
# Remove the binder flushing kit
# Empty any ink in the binder tank, rinse with distilled water, fill with binder, and reinstall
# Install a new HP10 printhead
# Press the 'online' button
# Print a 100x100x20mm block to flush the printhead with the dye-based ink, and transition to sake binder

= ZP150 Infiltration/Finishing Techniques =

== Wax Infiltration ==

Wax infiltration uses paraffin or beeswax to fully infiltrate the part, adding strength and moisture resistance.

=== Advantages ===

* Part is waterpoof
* Preserves fine details

=== Drawbacks ===

* Low finished part strength (but higher than 'green' strength)
* Part must be painted before wax is applied
** Painted parts will have matte, waxy finish

=== Procedure ===

* Cure green part at 90C for 4 hours.
* Paint part with watercolors.
* Cure painted part at 90C for 2 hours.
* Put part on a wax paper covered plate, next to a small block of paraffin or beeswax
* Put part in 90C oven for 2 hours, or until wax is wicked into part
** If the part is not fully infiltrated, add more wax and continue to heat at 90C.
* Remove part while still warm, and place on mesh grid to allow any remaining wax to drip off.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_paint.jpg|Using water paints to color the model.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_waxed.jpg|Finished model after waxing.
</gallery>

== Hydraulic Curing ==

This technique leads to a very high part strength, and the resulting part is waterproof and paintable.

=== Advantages ===

* Finished part has a high strength
* Part becomes waterproof
* Part is paintable with acrylics, watercolors, and most other paints

=== Disadvantages ===

* Parts with fine details and complex geometries cannot be cured with this method.
* Can leave parts with a high surface roughness

=== Procedure ===

* Cover bottom of container with clean, superfine sand
* Put green part in container.
** Part must have any concavities pointed upwards, to be able to receive sand.
* Sift sand over part until completely covered.
* Tap container until sand is fully packed around part.
* Fill container with water, slowly.
** As you fill the container, ensure that there is a 'dry' patch on the surface to allow trapped air to escape, until the container is full.
** Once filling begins, do _not_ move nor shake the container.
* Let container sit for 1 to 2 hours, undisturbed.
* Pour off excess water, and invert container
* Rinse sand off of the part
* Place part in a container of fresh water + 5% distilled vinegar to release surface sand
** Let sit for 2 hours
* Remove part, and brush off any remaining surface sand
* Let part air-dry for 24 hours
** Optional: air-dry for 2 hours, followed by drying in a 70C oven for 4 hours.

[https://github.com/Alexia/mediawiki-embedvideo/archive/v2.2.8.zip YouTube video of destructive testing of the resultant part]

Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion

2016-03-15T13:27:33Z

Ezrec: /* Introduction */

= Introduction =

The Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa board was a prototype that I was working on for my Amiga 1000.

Schematics and logic completed, even built a board, but I got an A1200 before I had a chance to test the board.

[https://github.com/ezrec/romorama ROMORAMA Schematics and PLD code]

<gallery>
File:ROMoRAMa_board_front.jpg|Front of the board, where the SRAM and EEPROMs would go
File:ROMoRAMa_board_back.jpg|My giant spaghetti wiring
File:ROMoRAMa_board_angle.jpg|A nice view of the mess
</gallery>

File:ROMoRAMa board angle.jpg

2016-03-15T13:26:57Z

Ezrec:

File:ROMoRAMa board back.jpg

2016-03-15T13:26:39Z

Ezrec:

Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion

2016-03-15T13:26:24Z

Ezrec:

= Introduction =

The Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa board was a prototype that I was working on form my A1000.

Schematics and logic completed, even built a board, but I got an A1200 before I had a chance to test the board.

[https://github.com/ezrec/romorama ROMORAMA Schematics and PLD code]

<gallery>
File:ROMoRAMa_board_front.jpg|Front of the board, where the SRAM and EEPROMs would go
File:ROMoRAMa_board_back.jpg|My giant spaghetti wiring
File:ROMoRAMa_board_angle.jpg|A nice view of the mess
</gallery>

File:ROMoRAMa board front.jpg

2016-03-15T13:26:01Z

Ezrec:

Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion

2016-03-15T13:25:09Z

Ezrec: Created page with "= Introduction = The Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa board was a prototype that I was working on form my A1000. Schematics and logic completed, even built a board, but I got an A1200 be..."

= Introduction =

The Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa board was a prototype that I was working on form my A1000.

Schematics and logic completed, even built a board, but I got an A1200 before I had a chance to test the board.

[https://github.com/ezrec/romorama ROMORAMA Schematics and PLD code]

<gallery>
File:ROMoRAMa_board_front.jpg Front of the board, where the SRAM and EEPROMs would go
File:ROMoRAMa_board_back.jpg My giant spaghetti wiring
File:ROMoRAMa_board_angle.jpg A nice view of the mess
</gallery>

Main Page

2016-03-15T13:21:29Z

Ezrec: /* Amiga */

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]
ZCorp_Z310%2B
== 3D Printing ==

=== Powder Bed ===

==== Active Projects ====

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

==== Suspended Projects ====

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

* [[Amiga 1000 ROMoRAMa Expansion]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

File:EPSON TM-C600 Hatch-Open.jpg

2016-03-08T01:33:01Z

Ezrec:

EPSON TM-C600

2016-03-08T01:32:28Z

Ezrec:

= Introduction =

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg|The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing!
</gallery>

The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a spec design for exclusive use by Catalina Marketing in the United States.

An identical printer to the EPSON TM-C610 - with the notable exception of requiring SJIC11P instead of SJIC25P cartridges, this printer is the workhorse coupon dispenser of many grocery store checkout lanes in the US.

= Setup =

The TM-C600 model that I acquired was a remanufactured unit off of eBay.com, for about $50 USD, with two spare ink cartridges.

After unpacking, remove the rear cover, and plug in the power adapter and the provided Ethernet cable into the TM-C600.

== Paper Loading ==

The paper loading can be accomplished with the power off or on.

Simply press down the gray latch in front, and pull the front panel forward.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Hatch-Open.jpg|The hatch opened.
</gallery>

Note that the paper roll drive and the ink head are located at the top front of the inside of the printer.

'''Do not touch the nozzles!''' - you can ''permanently'' damage them with fingerprints!

With the paper hatch open, insert the paper as per the diagram printed on the hatch.

As soon as the hatch is closed, the paper is loaded.

== Network Setup ==

Plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into a laptop of desktop computer.

Before powering on the TM-C600, set up the laptop/desktop machine's Ethernet to the following:

{| class="wikitable"
| IP Address || 192.168.192.1
|-
| Netmask || 255.255.255.0
|-
| Broadcast || 192.168.192.255
|}

Power on the TM-C600, and wait until it finishes its self-check (about 3 minutes or so, depending on how stale the ink cartridge is).

When it is complete, and only the green power light is lit, access the TM-C600 at the following IP address:

{| class="wikitable"
| URL || http://192.168.192.168/
|-
| Username || EPSON
|-
| Password || *No password needed*
|}

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Homepage.png
</gallery>

You can also telnet to 192.168.192.168, and log in with (again) no password - just slap ENTER - and configure the network setup from the command line prompts.

== Driver Setup ==

The CMC-6/TM-C600 uses the exact same driver as the EPSON TM-C610, and can be downloaded from [https://download.epson-biz.com/modules/pos/index.php?page=prod&pcat=2&pid=14 EPSON's POS printer site].

Run the nozzle check/cleaning about 3 times to clean out any old gunk and cycle the ink up to the printhead.

= Printing =

Prints like any other network connected Windows printer - with the exception that the paper is very very narrow!

It takes standard 2.25" receipt paper, available at any office supply store.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Landscape.jpg
</galler>

EPSON TM-C600

2016-03-08T01:27:43Z

Ezrec:

= Introduction =

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg|The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing!
</gallery>

The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a spec design for exclusive use by Catalina Marketing in the United States.

An identical printer to the EPSON TM-C610 - with the notable exception of requiring SJIC11P instead of SJIC25P cartridges, this printer is the workhorse coupon dispenser of many grocery store checkout lanes in the US.

= Setup =

The TM-C600 model that I acquired was a remanufactured unit off of eBay.com, for about $50 USD, with two spare ink cartridges.

After unpacking, remove the rear cover, and plug in the power adapter and the provided Ethernet cable into the TM-C600.

== Network Setup ==

Plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into a laptop of desktop computer.

Before powering on the TM-C600, set up the laptop/desktop machine's Ethernet to the following:

{| class="wikitable"
| IP Address || 192.168.192.1
|-
| Netmask || 255.255.255.0
|-
| Broadcast || 192.168.192.255
|}

Power on the TM-C600, and wait until it finishes its self-check (about 3 minutes or so, depending on how stale the ink cartridge is).

When it is complete, and only the green power light is lit, access the TM-C600 at the following IP address:

{| class="wikitable"
| URL || http://192.168.192.168/
|-
| Username || EPSON
|-
| Password || *No password needed*
|}

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Homepage.png
</gallery>

You can also telnet to 192.168.192.168, and log in with (again) no password - just slap ENTER - and configure the network setup from the command line prompts.

== Driver Setup ==

The CMC-6/TM-C600 uses the exact same driver as the EPSON TM-C610, and can be downloaded from [https://download.epson-biz.com/modules/pos/index.php?page=prod&pcat=2&pid=14 EPSON's POS printer site].

Run the nozzle check/cleaning about 3 times to clean out any old gunk and cycle the ink up to the printhead.

= Printing =

Prints like any other network connected Windows printer - with the exception that the paper is very very narrow!

It takes standard 2.25" receipt paper, available at any office supply store.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Landscape.jpg
</galler>

EPSON TM-C600

2016-03-08T01:25:02Z

Ezrec: /* Introduction */

= Introduction =

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg|The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing!
</gallery>

The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a spec design for exclusive use by Catalina Marketing in the United States.

An identical printer to the EPSON TM-C610 - with the notable exception of requiring SJIC11P instead of SJIC25P cartridges, this printer is the workhorse coupon dispenser of many grocery store checkout lanes in the US.

= Setup =

The TM-C600 model that I acquired was a remanufactured unit off of eBay.com, for about $50 USD, with two spare ink cartridges.

After unpacking, remove the rear cover, and plug in the power adapter and the provided Ethernet cable into the TM-C600.

== Network Setup ==

Plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into a laptop of desktop computer.

Before powering on the TM-C600, set up the laptop/desktop machine's Ethernet to the following:

{|
| IP Address || 192.168.192.1
| Netmask || 255.255.255.0
| Broadcast || 192.168.192.255
|}

Power on the TM-C600, and wait until it finishes its self-check (about 3 minutes or so, depending on how stale the ink cartridge is).

When it is complete, and only the green power light is lit, access the TM-C600 at the following IP address:

{|
| URL | http://192.168.192.168/
| Username | EPSON
| Password | *No password needed*
|}

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Homepage.png
</gallery>

You can also telnet to 192.168.192.168, and log in with (again) no password - just slap ENTER - and configure the network setup from the command line prompts.

== Driver Setup ==

The CMC-6/TM-C600 uses the exact same driver as the EPSON TM-C610, and can be downloaded from [https://download.epson-biz.com/modules/pos/index.php?page=prod&pcat=2&pid=14 EPSON's POS printer site].

Run the nozzle check/cleaning about 3 times to clean out any old gunk and cycle the ink up to the printhead.

= Printing =

Prints like any other network connected Windows printer - with the exception that the paper is very very narrow!

It takes standard 2.25" receipt paper, available at any office supply store.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Landscape.jpg
</galler>

File:EPSON TM-C600.jpg

2016-03-08T01:23:44Z

Ezrec:

File:EPSON TM-C600 Homepage.png

2016-03-08T01:22:59Z

Ezrec:

File:EPSON TM-C600 Landscape.jpg

2016-03-08T01:22:30Z

Ezrec:

EPSON TM-C600

2016-03-08T01:21:54Z

Ezrec: Created page with "= Introduction = <gallery> File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing! </gallery> The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a..."

= Introduction =

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600.jpg The EPSON TM-C600 - a tiny thing!
</gallery>

The EPSON TM-C600 (also known as the Catalina Marketing CMC-6 in the US) was a spec design for exclusive use by Catalina Marketing in the United States.

An identical printer to the EPSON TM-C610 - with the notable exception of requiring SJIC11P instead of SJIC25P cartridges, this printer is the workhorse coupon dispenser of many grocery store checkout lanes in the US.

= Setup =

The TM-C600 model that I acquired was a remanufactured unit off of eBay.com, for about $50 USD, with two spare ink cartridges.

After unpacking, remove the rear cover, and plug in the power adapter and the provided Ethernet cable into the TM-C600.

== Network Setup ==

Plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into a laptop of desktop computer.

Before powering on the TM-C600, set up the laptop/desktop machine's Ethernet to the following:

{|
| IP Address || 192.168.192.1
| Netmask || 255.255.255.0
| Broadcast || 192.168.192.255
|}

Power on the TM-C600, and wait until it finishes its self-check (about 3 minutes or so, depending on how stale the ink cartridge is).

When it is complete, and only the green power light is lit, access the TM-C600 at the following IP address:

{|
| URL | http://192.168.192.168/
| Username | EPSON
| Password | *No password needed*
|}

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Homepage.png
</gallery>

You can also telnet to 192.168.192.168, and log in with (again) no password - just slap ENTER - and configure the network setup from the command line prompts.

== Driver Setup ==

The CMC-6/TM-C600 uses the exact same driver as the EPSON TM-C610, and can be downloaded from [https://download.epson-biz.com/modules/pos/index.php?page=prod&pcat=2&pid=14 EPSON's POS printer site].

Run the nozzle check/cleaning about 3 times to clean out any old gunk and cycle the ink up to the printhead.

= Printing =

Prints like any other network connected Windows printer - with the exception that the paper is very very narrow!

It takes standard 2.25" receipt paper, available at any office supply store.

<gallery>
File:EPSON_TM-C600_Landscape.jpg
</galler>

Main Page

2016-03-08T01:03:13Z

Ezrec:

= EvilLabs Wiki =

For more details about any of my projects, please contact:

[[File:ezrec_email.jpg]]
ZCorp_Z310%2B
== 3D Printing ==

=== Powder Bed ===

==== Active Projects ====

[[ZCorp Z310+]] - Z310+ techniques, hacks, and maintenance.

==== Suspended Projects ====

[[Project BrundleFab]] - my attempt at a 3D sugar printer, using binder and heat sintering.

[[ESC/PRinter]] - Adapting an EPSON ESC/P-R printer for powder bed use

== Miscellaneous ==

* [[EPSON TM-C600]] Usage information

* [[switchHANDsignal|switchHANDsignal Moped Group]]

* [[OnSpec 90c26]] Parallel Port SCSI Protocol

* [[Farlell RPG]]

* [[Charm's Story RPG]]

* [[Sabrent TV-PCIRC]]

* [[Reef Aquaria]]

* [[Lilly's Page]]

* [[The W Page]]

== Indian Dirt Bike ==

* [[Indian ME Frame Manual]]

* [[Indian ME Wiring]]

== Amiga ==

* [[Amiga Kickstart 1.3 ROM-Wack]]

* [[AROS m68k-amiga]]

* [[Amiga GDB Debugging]]

* [[AmiWest 2011]]

* [[AmiWest 2012]]

* [[FPGAArcade Replay]]

* [[Amiga Icon Formats]]

* [[AROS ABIv1]]

* [[Pathway (SL811HS USB)]]

= Projects =

All sources are at GitHub[http://github.com] [http://github.com/ezrec/ public repositories].

== Steamed Windows ==

SteamOS with Windows in a VM, with an IOMMU connection to a graphics processor

See [[Project steamed-windows]] for details.

== CatWeasel Mk2 for Linux ==

Support for the CatWeasel Mk2 "Anniversary Edition" floppy controller, via IDE, for Linux.

See [[Project catweasel]] for details.

== ip-usbph ==

A library, using libusb, for controlling the Kinamax/Sabrent IP-USBPH VoIP phones.

See [[Project ip-usbph]] for details.

== usense ==

A set of tools for reading USB sensors.

Currently supports the [http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html Vernier GoTemp!] and the
[http://www.pcsensor.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=27 TEMPer] series of USB thermometers.

See [[Project usense]] for more details.

== Aquaria ==

Combines an [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320030 ASUS WL500+ Premium], the [http://www.openwrt.org] embedded Linux distribution, a [[Project ip-usbph|IP-USBPH]] VoIP handset, [[Project usense|USB thermal sensors]], a [http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html 8-way Web Power Switch] and my [[Project Aquaria|Aquaria]] aquarium control software to make a lighting, pump, and temperature monitoring and control system for my [[Reef Aquaria]].

See [[Project Aquaria]] for more details.

== Stained Glass ==

I dabble in some [[Project Stained Glass|Stained Glass]] projects.

ZCorp Z310+

2016-03-06T05:46:49Z

Ezrec: /* Printhead Commissioning Procedure */

= What is it? =

The ZCorp Z310+ is a powder bed printer, designed to run a variety of powders and binders through HP10 printheads.

The Z310 was discontinued in 2011. ZCorp was absorbed by [https://www.3dsystems.com/ 3D Systems] on Jan 3, 2012, and as on February 10, 2016, 3D Systems has ended all warranty and support for it.

The HP10 printhead can often be found as 'new old stock' on eBay or industrial supply dealers.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_printer_and_depowder.jpg|Z310+ printer and depowdering station
</gallery>

For more details, please contact me at:

[[File:Ezrec_email.jpg]]

= Modifications =

Some 3D printable modifications (such as a binder tubing clip) are available on my [https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods https://github.com/ezrec/zcorp-mods] GitHub repository.

== Fast Axis Powder Sealing ==

The fast axis electronics box can get quite dusty. With some single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape (used for weatherproofing windows), you can easily reduce the amount of dust in the electronics box.

# Remove the metal shrouds on the fast axis electronics box.
# Using compressed air, blow out any existing dust in the electronics box.
#* DO NOT VACUUM - the act of vacuuming can cause ESD damage to the electronics!
# Wash and dry the metal shrouds.
# Apply single-sided self-sticking compressible foam insulation tape, as per the gallery images below.
# Reassemble the fast axis electronics shrouds.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_1.jpg|View of foam tape of the electronics box
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_box_2.jpg|Alternate view
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_front.jpg|Tape, as applied to the front shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_rear.jpg|Tape, as applied to the rear shroud.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_powderseal_final.jpg|Assembled and cleaned shrouds.
</gallery>

== Head-Change Drip Plate ==

This is a very easy mod - just put a saucer under the 'change head' location on the bed, to catch any binder drips when you are changing the head, or purging the binder lines.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_mod_dripplate.jpg|A small saucer to catch binder drips.
</gallery>

== ZD5 Depowdering Station: Vortex Dust Collector ==

The ZD5 Depowdering station uses a bag vacuum in its base to collect the powder cleared from the station. As the bag fills with pwoder, the ZD5 vacuum loses suction over time.

Removal of the bag and cleaning the powder out of it for recycling is dusty and messy. This modification reduces bag change intervals significantly, and makes it much easier to recycle the powder.

A number of vendors sell DIY vortex dust collection systems for wood shops, and these work very well in combination with the ZD5's powerful vacuum. The one in the example is a DIY kit from Oneida Air Systems, purchased from a local hardware store for $50 USD.

Assemble the vortex collector as directed by the manufacturer, and place in-line with the ZD5 depowdering station's vacuum hoses. Only about 5%-10% of the powder ends up in the vacuum bag, extending the amount of time between bag changes - the bulk of the powder will end up in the vortex collector's bucket, easily removed, sifted, and recycled.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_assembly.jpg|ZD5 with a vortex dust collector attached.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_zd5_vortex_results.jpg|Dust ends up in the bucket - not in the bag!
</gallery>

= Materials =

== Sake (Rice Wine) Binder ==

I use Sake (Japanese rice wine) as a binder. It is available in gallon jug - make sure to get the unflavored variety, and aim for 15%-20% alcohol content.

=== Color and Flavor Additives ===

Small amounts of colors and flavors can be added to the sake binder, but don't overdo it.

If the physical properties (viscosity and surface tension) are altered too much, the nozzle flow rate will be too low, and you can risk burning out the printhead.

Adjust your binder mixture slowly, until you see streaking, then add plain sake to dilute it back to a workable mixture.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_too_much_flavor.jpg|In this example, too much flavoring (orange extract) was added, leading to the streaking observed.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sake_corrected.jpg|Diluting the binder with more sake resolved the issue.
</gallery>

== Powder Theory ==

My current running theory is that a 'good' powder mix needs the following characteristics:

* A 'bulk' insoluble material which does not change size when wetted (like the gravel in cement)
* A binder soluble adhesive, which prevents the layer from curling/cracking from surface tension.
* A wicking agent, to decrease powder surface tension, and pull the binder into the layer from the surface
* A hydroscopic agent, to prevent the binder from spreading by capillary action into the unprinted area.

A good powder can have separate agents for these characteristics, or some agents can perform multiple actions.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Material Characteristics
|-
! Material !! Bulk !! Adhesive !! Wicking !! Hydroscopic
|-
| Sugar || X || - || X || -
|-
| Plaster || X || X || - || -
|-
| Corn Starch || - || - || - || X
|-
| Maltodextrin || - || - || - || X
|-
| PVA Powder || - || X || - || -
|-
| Meringue Powder || - || X || - || -
|}

== ZP-150 ==

=== What Works ===

When I have it, I run ZP-150 plaster powder at 0.1mm layers.

It's a very expensive material, so I tend to save it for comparison tests against my home-made powders.

== Sugar Powder Recipes ==

This is a very inexpensive (about $1 USD/kg) medium, and is nice for non-durable pieces.

I highly recommend adding a dye to your binder (food coloring works well) so that it easier to determine where the surface boundaries are when depowdering.

NOTE: The ZCorp 310+ is _not_ a food-safe device, and the printed results are not edible.

=== What Works ===

==== EZSpread Powder ====

This recipe spreads much more easily than the base powder, so you do not need to remove the scraper blade. However, the easily wetted powdered sugar requires that the saturation level of the derived powder must be lower to prevent bleed-through when spreading the new layer.

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz
* Diamond 10-X Powdered Sugar, 64oz (super fine sugar powder + corn starch)

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 80% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours before removal.
** Shell will be hard enough to handle air depowdering and manual brushing
** Core material will still be soft.
* Part will continue to harden for 48 hours (depending on temp & humidity)
** Shell will be hardened in about 12 hours
** Core material fully hardened after 48 hours

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller with a dry paper towel after each print.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powdered_sugar.jpg|Two bags of 10-X powdered sugar are added to the base mix.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_ezspread.jpg|Consistency test of the powder. Note that it holds its shape better than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl print. Much better fine detail than the base powder.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_complex.jpg|EZSpread, handling a complex build plate.
</gallery>

=== Post Processing ===

After depowdering, lightly mist with distilled water, and dry in a 90C oven for one to two hours.

For permanent display, or lost wax casting, the sugar powder object can be infiltrated with paraffin wax.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_ezspread_owl.jpg|Owl model, after light depowdering.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_spray.jpg|Sprayed with distilled water, and held in 90C oven for 1 hour.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar_owl_wax.jpg|Owl after infiltration with wax.
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Granulated Sugar Powder ====

Experimental powder, using the following recipe:

* Granulated sugar, 25lb
* Wilton's Meringue Powder, 8oz

Mix together, then pulse in a food processors (about 1lb at a time, or however much your food processor will hold) for approx 120 seconds total, until the powder is at a fine grain consistency.

* Remove the scraper blade from the roller portion of the fast-axis assembly.
* Derive a new powder in ZPrint from the ZP-15E base powder
** Set saturation to 100% for shell and core.
* Print at 0.2mm per layer.
* Cure 'in bed' for at least 8 hours.

Make sure to *thoroughly* clean the roller after each print - it can get very sticky otherwise.

.. but they sure look cool, and sugar is a heck of a lot cheaper than ZP-150.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_sugar.jpg|25lb of sugar - $20 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_meringue.jpg|8oz of meringue powder - $10 USD
File:ZCorp_Z310+_scraper.jpg|Location of the scraper blade - 3 hex bolts hold it in - 2 in rear of slow axis, 1 in front.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_powder_sugar_base.jpg|Base sugar powder consistiency
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_layer.jpg|Printing out sugar skulls
File:ZCorp_Z310+_skull_final.jpg|Printed sugar skull!
</gallery>

=== EZSpread + Maltodextrin (96oz) ===

Adding 96oz of maltodextrin to the EZSpread material resulted in a powder that spread very easily, (2mm at 80% or lower saturation), and resulted in accurate parts with fine detail...

However...

* Attempting to use a saturation over 80% caused the roller to 'pick up' the previous layer, and scrape the layer over the part bed
* Resultant parts had an extremely low green strength, and after 24 hours had even less - they began to crumble simply due to gravity

RESULT: '''FAIL!'''

== USG Hydrostone Super-X ==

USG Hydrostone Super-X is a fine plaster powder, with a light tan color. It has an extremely low 'mix consistiency' of 100 to 22, and is a very fast setting plaster.

=== What Works ===

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 ====

Binder setting: ZP-140

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Good green strength after 1 hour in the bed.

A very low amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part, typically in inner cavities.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

=== What Doesn't ===

==== Hydrostone 1:0:0:0 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* Hydrostone Super-X, straight out of the bucket

Good spread, but some slight "roller drag" on freshly printed layers.

Part was not removable, after even 6 hours. All moisture wicked into the unprinted powder, leaving the printed part without sufficient moisture to slake.

==== Hydrostone 36:4:1:3 ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 36 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 4 units PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 3 units Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Damp and crumbly after 1 hour

Weak green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A significant amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-36-4-1-3.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

==== Hydrostone 12:1:1:1 (wet) ====

Binder setting: ZB56/ZP102

* 12 units Hydrostone Super-X
* 1 unit PVA powder
* 1 unit Maltodextrin
* 1 unit Powdered sugar (with cornstarch)

Very good spread, with no "roller drag" on the freshly printed layer.

Very weak after 1 hour, but very good green strength after 6 hours in the bed.

A noticable amount of clumping of unprinted powder around the finished part.

Very little dimensional bleed.

<gallery>
File:Hydrostone-12-1-1-1-wet.png|Sample part, air depowdered only
</gallery>

= Maintenance =

== Front Panel Removal And Cleaning ==

Removing the front panel allows full access to the piston screw for lubrication, and removal of dust and debris from the debris catching tray under the pistons.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_screws.jpg|Locate and remove the 2 hex screws retaining the front panel.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_lcd.jpg|Lift the front panel approx 5cm, and pull away about 50cm. Unplug the LCD panel
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_waste.jpg|Pull off the waste bottle hose.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_frontclean_removed.jpg|The front panel removed.
</gallery>

== Low Binder Flow ==

Low binder flow can be caused by many problems - follow this checklist to resolve them:

* If you can push binder via the binder flush kit, but pulling binder is difficult:
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector on the back of the fast axis.
** Check/replace the quick-fit connector to the binder tank
** Check/replace the filter unit behind the binder tank
* If pushing/pulling binder is equally difficult:
** Remove the printhead
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with a 5% household bleach to 95% distilled water solution.
** Leave the solution in for at least 12 hours
** Use the purge kit to flush the binder lines with 200ml of distilled water
** Use the purge kit to load the binder lines with clean binder

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_issue.jpg|Low flow issue, notice the partial print in the upper left corner.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_connector.jpg|Location of binder 'quick-fit' connector that had worn.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_low_flow_resolved.jpg|Shim installed in connector, to resolve flow issue.
</gallery>

== Printhead Commissioning Procedure ==

I have noticed on dead printheads that the mesh filter in front of the inkjets were clogged with black ink particles. They appear to have precipitated from the black ink when my sake binder mixed with old ink still in the cartridges.

I have developed the following procedure to flush a 'new' printhead with a dye based ink, to clear out the black pigment, before using my sake binder. This eliminates the flocking issue.

# Press 'N' on the console to begin the procedure
# Remove the old printhead
# Empty the binder tank into a spare clean container, and reinstall
# Load the binder flushing kit syringe with 30ml of yellow dye based HP10 bulk ink
# Install the binder flushing kit into the septum.
# Push the 25ml of dye into the septum
# Remove the binder flushing kit
# Empty any ink in the binder tank, rinse with distilled water, fill with binder, and reinstall
# Install a new HP10 printhead
# Press the 'online' button
# Print a 100x100x20mm block to flush the printhead with the dye-based ink, and transition to sake binder

= ZP150 Infiltration/Finishing Techniques =

== Wax Infiltration ==

Wax infiltration uses paraffin or beeswax to fully infiltrate the part, adding strength and moisture resistance.

=== Advantages ===

* Part is waterpoof
* Preserves fine details

=== Drawbacks ===

* Low finished part strength (but higher than 'green' strength)
* Part must be painted before wax is applied
** Painted parts will have matte, waxy finish

=== Procedure ===

* Cure green part at 90C for 4 hours.
* Paint part with watercolors.
* Cure painted part at 90C for 2 hours.
* Put part on a wax paper covered plate, next to a small block of paraffin or beeswax
* Put part in 90C oven for 2 hours, or until wax is wicked into part
** If the part is not fully infiltrated, add more wax and continue to heat at 90C.
* Remove part while still warm, and place on mesh grid to allow any remaining wax to drip off.

<gallery>
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_paint.jpg|Using water paints to color the model.
File:ZCorp_Z310+_waxing_kraken_waxed.jpg|Finished model after waxing.
</gallery>

== Hydraulic Curing ==

This technique leads to a very high part strength, and the resulting part is waterproof and paintable.

=== Advantages ===

* Finished part has a high strength
* Part becomes waterproof
* Part is paintable with acrylics, watercolors, and most other paints

=== Disadvantages ===

* Parts with fine details and complex geometries cannot be cured with this method.
* Can leave parts with a high surface roughness

=== Procedure ===

* Cover bottom of container with clean, superfine sand
* Put green part in container.
** Part must have any concavities pointed upwards, to be able to receive sand.
* Sift sand over part until completely covered.
* Tap container until sand is fully packed around part.
* Fill container with water, slowly.
** As you fill the container, ensure that there is a 'dry' patch on the surface to allow trapped air to escape, until the container is full.
** Once filling begins, do _not_ move nor shake the container.
* Let container sit for 1 to 2 hours, undisturbed.
* Pour off excess water, and invert container
* Rinse sand off of the part
* Place part in a container of fresh water + 5% distilled vinegar to release surface sand
** Let sit for 2 hours
* Remove part, and brush off any remaining surface sand
* Let part air-dry for 24 hours
** Optional: air-dry for 2 hours, followed by drying in a 70C oven for 4 hours.

[https://github.com/Alexia/mediawiki-embedvideo/archive/v2.2.8.zip YouTube video of destructive testing of the resultant part]